Switching to the Campy carbon levers and Nitto Soba bar saves me 80 grams total, which gets me half of a front rack. The new stem and cutting off the steerer should get me the other half.

Build a new rear wheel (figuring I can drop 100 grams on the rim, and 75 in spokes+hub) and I”m probably still around 23lbs. That is probably not worth it.

When I take the bike apart for painting I”ll measure each component instead of going based on internet weights.

The vibration is the main win on the sonDelux for me, and the primary reason for me to upgrade. The half-pound weight savings are a nice bonus though. I have a perfectly fine SON28 in a 700C rim, so I just need to decide if it is worth buying a new hub and building up a wheel for. If I do go down that route I”ll probably use a lighter rim too (the CR18 is a great rim, but not light).

I”m getting a pair of the Campy carbon brake levers from a friend for a good price. That”ll be the only carbon bike component that I own. I do have a carbon fiber kayak paddle.

The front derailleur is going soon, I just haven”t dug through my pile to find a replacement. It doesn”t do well at all on this bike. It is my favorite triple front derailleur, but it doesn”t do well with low Q doubles.

We”ll see. The rack and dynohub will add some weight, but some other changes that I”m making (new stem, handlebars, brake levers) should lose some. The wheels are the primary place where I could save real weight, but I”m unlikely to build a new set. Maybe a front one to run a sonDelux instead of my old SON27.

The frame tubing is 8/5/8 steel (Kaisei 019). Fork blades are True Temper, with a special ultra-light Pacenti steerer. The pump is an ultralight Zefal that Jan gave me.

23lbs will be great, 24lbs (including pump) is probably a realistic target.

The cassette will likely be replaced with an 11-28 or 11-30 or something smaller. I used the 11-34 because I had it and wanted to get the bike on the road. I have to admit that the 34 has come in helpful a few times when I”ve been pulling my trailer up steep hills, and I kind of like riding around without dropping out of the 44 on normal hills.

The rack will be a smaller handlebar bag rack. It will either mount to the brake studs and mid-fork locations, or to the fork crown and mid-fork locations. I”m still pondering many options with the rack. The biggest one is internal light wiring and using 5/16″ x 0.028 tubing, or exposed wiring and 1/4″ x 0.028. The 1/4″ tubing looks a bit nicer for a handlebar bag rack and also weighs about 50 grams less for a rack of this size.

My employer’’s bike shuttle uses the normal bus rack, but adds a second rear wheel hook that sits on the fender. It hits normal fender stays, so the S-bend fender stays are designed to clear that hook.

What kind of rack will you be building for this -and where will it mount? Just curious as your front fender crown mount seems to take the location of a typical Wetmore front rack mount. Also, the rear fender stays have a nice symmetric dogleg to them. Aesthetic or is there some other purpose?

It’’s a lot better than assuming that the frame was built exactly to spec and just doing the fork based on the drawing as well. The front end geometry is pretty important to me, so I like having this checkpoint along the way.

That fixture gets a lot of use in my shop, I also use it when building porteur racks to support the platform.