Comments on: Tikit conversion to internal hub gear

By: AlexWetmore

AlexWetmore — Wed, 20 Feb 2008 04:16:15 +0000

The SRAM 7sp clickbox is well protected by the heavy gauge wire which wraps around it. This is my third bike with this shifting system (one of the others was a folder) and I”ve never had a problem. I find it easier to remove the clickbox than to undo the cable on the Shimano system. The big wins with the SRAM are that it has a wider gear range than the Nexus 7sp, more even gearing than the Nexus 8sp, is more efficient, more robust, and comes with a nicer drum brake.

Please link to photos when you”ve done a conversion, I look forward to seeing it.

I learned about that eccentric bottom bracket from another friend recently. Something to check out if I have chain wear issues. So far it’’s doing fine — if I get 1500 miles out of a $10 chain before it stretches too long for this bike then I”ll be very satisified.

By: Kai Fuchs

Kai Fuchs — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 19:55:16 +0000

Hello from good old Europe,

I^m building since a few months the tikit optional with the Nexus/Alfine internal gearhub, but with tensioner. I prefer the Shimano version instead of the SRAM 7 speed version because the gearbox at the SRAM hub doesn^t really last long on such a bike. Without a tool not so easy to replace when broken. You have luck with the 53/18 combination, but if the chain gets longer, youll get a problem. Here is the solution for you: http://trickstuff.de/index.php?p=d110de1 This is an excentric bottom bracket from Germany for standard BSA bottom bracket shells in combination with Hollowtech 2 cranks. Invented for Single speed, but usefull for internal hubs too. It shorten the chain by 6 mm. Best regards

Kai Fuchs Bike Friday Europe

By: AlexWetmore

AlexWetmore — Mon, 21 Jan 2008 05:51:44 +0000

I think that the cable problems are solved. I retrofit my tikit with the new system and it provides for a more rigid stem. The new cable is very large (about 4 or 5mm in diameter) and strong and also easier to adjust.

The main reason to get a model T tikit would be cost savings.

By: Jean-Yves

Jean-Yves — Sun, 20 Jan 2008 21:48:29 +0000

Hello,

sorry for my english, but I am french ! I would like to buy a Tikit because I find this bike great, but I am afraid with the cable. I know that Bike Friday has made some modifications to improve the bike. Do you think the flexing problem is solved ? Is the stem stiffer now ? Do you have problems with your tikit ? I would like in fact to buy the express Tikit : do you think that with the cable it is ok, or may be it is better to buy this bike with the stem knob ?
I would prefer with cable but I need some advice.
Thanks for your response,
JY

By: AlexWetmore

AlexWetmore — Wed, 14 Nov 2007 22:35:40 +0000

We”ll see. If I do have problems then I”ll use a chainstay mounted tensioner (there isn”t much space for a dropout mounted one due to the clickbox).

In my experience chains on internal hub gears last a very long time without noticable stretch. If I get a couple of thousand miles without needing to adjust it then I”d happily move the chain onto another bicycle and put a fresh chain on this one.

By: Vik

Vik — Wed, 14 Nov 2007 00:35:23 +0000

Since the Tikit has vertical drop outs will you have issues as the chain stretches since you can”t adjust the hub?

By: AlexWetmore

AlexWetmore — Fri, 02 Nov 2007 23:58:18 +0000

Phil — Origin-8 bars are available from most bike shops through J&B (a distributor that bike shops order from). Origin-8 seems to be cloning many of the On One bars at cheaper prices and they are easier to get. This one costs about $30.

Mike — It is a Sun M14A in 349mm and 36 holes. It cost about $40 and my LBS ordered it through J&B.

Larry — The loop is just the end of the brake cable. The cable clamp seems to want you to route the cable back on itself. I didn”t want a hard crimp, so I left an open loop.

Your issues for switching to a drop bar are similar to my issues for switching to a drop bar, so I”m trying this as a compromise.

Christian — This is a size large Tikit. The reaction arm does make rear wheel removal more difficult, I”d need to loosen the bolt and clamp. I might make a different clamp that makes it QR.

By: christian

christian — Fri, 02 Nov 2007 17:59:58 +0000

Oh, that’’s nice to see put together. Is that a size large? if so , I”ll file away that information about the magical lucky chainring/cog combo for future use.

Does the reaction arm thing on the hub brake make wheel removal more difficult, or is there some kind of quick release like the ones Rohloff uses?

By: Larry Leveen

Larry Leveen — Fri, 02 Nov 2007 17:21:30 +0000

I have been using the Origin 8 Space Bar on my MTB and have enjoyed it, though I suspect I”d be even happier with a drop bar — hand position is about half-way between a flat bar and a brake hood, IMO. A drop bar would bring up other issues like switching to road version BB7 disc brakes and where to mount the SRAM trigger shifter for my 1×9 setup (answer: go Rohloff!).

BTW, that closeup of the hub made me do a double-take. It looks a bit like the spoke just right of the valve is attached to the drum brake actuator arm, but I see the real cable now. What’’s that loop-looking shape just over the actuator arm?

By: Mike Jenkins

Mike Jenkins — Wed, 31 Oct 2007 16:25:21 +0000

What size rim did you use and where did you find it?